Training tips for some bad doggy behavior: Jumping

The bad behavior.
Leopold, at one point, was a jumper. He would get excited when we or other people first walked through the door and would jump up on us with enthusiasm. It’s true, we didn’t always mind and none of our guests got angry about the behavior (some would even explain that they have a dog and it was ok). But I was worried that someday Leopold, weighing over 65lbs, would jump on someone like say Grandma and knock her to the ground. Or what about a small child? I decided that the jumping behavior had to stop.

The training.
Jumping, it turns out, is one of the easiest bad behaviors to correct. Jumping is really an attempt by the dog to get attention, and any petting done by the human is actually a reward, making the dog successful and the behavior more likely to occur next time. So, to stop the jumping, you need to ignore the dog. Absolutely no attention. Turn your back and ignore the dog. You can even cross your arms and look up to really let them know you’re not paying attention to them. If the dog tries to walk around and jump on you again, you turn your back to them again and continue ignoring the dog. Don’t push the dog off with your hands, as that could be seen as “play” by your dog and might be encouraging rather than corrective. After the dog stops jumping or maybe even sits, THEN give them the attention that they’re after. You’ve just rewarded polite, four-paws-on-the-ground behavior! Using this method of behavior correction, Leopold stopped jumping up on people after only a couple weeks. We haven’t had a problem with him since. Instead, he greets us at the door excitedly wiggling his body in every direction, but his paws never leave the ground. We did the same training with Halo as soon as she joined our household and was trained out of the bad jumping behavior in a similarly short time.

A training hurdle and how to (politely) jump it.
Over the years, I’ve found that the hardest part of training a dog is actually training all the people who come in contact with the dog. A dog is going to learn a lot better if everyone who interacts with it is on the same page. It only takes one household member to ruin a dog’s training or at least severely stymie progress. In our house, Chris and I have discussions about dog “rules”—rules on how we are going to react when Leopold or Halo exhibit a certain behavior. Of course, it’s easier to be on the same page for members of the same household, but what about the rest of the world? For the rest of the world (ie, guests), we would explain to them before entering the house that we were in the process of training Leopold to not jump. I’d warn people he might jump on them, and that they should turn their backs and ignore the behavior—to act as if jumping dogs don’t exist. Guests were always obliging and their help sped Leopold’s training along.

Training a dog TO jump.
I’ve heard some people say “I don’t mind if they jump on me” but then yell at the dog when it jumps on other people. How can a dog tell when it’s allowed to jump and when it’s not? I understand that it can be fun to have your dog jump up and place its paws on your hips or belly and then give you kisses; it’s almost like being hugged by your dog. I allow my dogs to jump on me, but only after I’ve given them a signal that it’s ok. I make them sit first, then pat my hips and say “up”. When I’m done giving affection, I put my hands in the air and say “off”. If you want to train your dog to do this, it’s a good idea to wait until your dog has first learned to keep its paws on the ground. And if you see your dog start jumping on people without being given a command, go back to no jumping at all.

A fun dog activity: Newmans Own brand treats + Hol-ee ball!

When Leopold was a puppy, he was full of energy and curiosity. If he wasn’t busy with an activity I gave him, he’d find one of his own, usually chewing on things he shouldn't. I tried to find things for him to do that would keep him occupied (and out of trouble!), but also keep him mentally stimulated. Now that Leopold is older, he’s learned not to get into my stuff, which is great, but it means he gets bored and just sleeps all day if I don’t give him something fun to do. And while I'd love to spend the day playing with my dogs, I only have so much time that I can give them. It’s nice to have activities I can offer my dog that are fun and also keep them mentally engaged for a while.

Here’s one activity that I came up with. It involves a green stretchy, molecule-like ball, called a Hol-ee Roller, 3.5" (the balls come in other colors; it’s just known as “the green ball” around our house). The ball is great for stuffing treats into so that the dog has to figure out how to get the treats out.

I find this particular ball design appealing because it’s so squishy and is not likely to do much damage if the dog whips it around or drops it down the stairs. It’s also very bouncy, which my dogs love. I’ve experimented with stuffing different types of treats inside; most are too easy to get out because they’re long and thin or too pliable. I’ve discovered, however, that the Newman’s Own Organic treats fit perfectly into the ball! The ball has enough stretch to get the treat through one of the holes to the center, and the hart-shape of the treat makes it impossible for it to fall out on its own.  I also like the Newman's Own brand treats (I get the turkey and sweet potato flavor) because they're healthy and made with good ingredients while still being appealing to my dogs.

Think your dog would like this activity?
The Hol-ee Roller ball is sold at most pet stores, or you can buy it from amazon.com: Hol-ee Roller, Size 3.5
And here's the perfect-shape and sized treats: Newman's Own Organic Premium Dog Treats Turkey and Sweet Potato -- 10 oz 

Leopold is a pretty smart guy and it didn’t take him long to figure out that he had to squash his green ball with his foot or mouth to get to the treat inside; though it takes him a while to work the treat out. He loves playing with his green ball, and it makes me happy to see him being active instead of just sleeping all day. Halo has yet
to figure out how to get the treat out (she just throws it around and chews on the ball, completely missing the treat), but she spends a lot of time playing with it. And that’s what I want! If Halo is playing with her green ball, she’s not getting into trouble.

Both Leopold and Halo love playing with their green ball! They get to have fun, and I get to feel good about keeping my dogs’ minds active.

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Halo graduates!

Halo graduated from beginner level school on Tuesday night at PetSmart! The evening started off with an exam: Halo had to show off all that’s she’s learned, including sitting on command, coming when called, and walking nicely on a leash. I’m pleased to say she passed with flying colors!  Of course, the real students in this type of training class are the humans.  My boyfriend, Chris, took lead of taking Halo to training classes and learning how to work with her at home.  Of course I helped, but Chris led the charge and he did a wonderful job with her!
I am a huge advocate for training classes. Whether it be a puppy, newly adopted dog, or old dog you’ve had a long time, I believe that training classes are always beneficial.
For dogs you’ve already had a while, training classes are just a lot of fun. They’re a chance for your dog to get out of the house and do something interesting and new; its good mental stimulation, which will help your dog stay sharp and be happy.  It might also be a chance for you and your dog to work on some of the bad habits they might have developed over the years.
For new dog owners, taking your dog to training classes is a great way to bond with your new furry friend. Training classes are fun—for you and your dog, and are therefore a positive experience that will help form a positive relationship. Training classes will also give the dog owner some understanding of dog psychology and behavior, providing insight to how your dog’s mind works and why it’s doing the things it does. Understanding your dog and helping your dog to understand you is a great foundation on which to start a doggy-human relationship. Training classes may seem like they might just be a way to teach your dog “tricks”, but what you’re actually learning is how to communicate with your dog and how to teach your dog to communicate with you.

Halo receives her certificate of graduation!

Now, I’ve been through beginner classes with Leopold.  And not long ago I even started training to become a pet training instructor (before landing my job at the emergency vet clinic), so I feel confidant that I can teach a dog a thing or two on my own. However, I insisted that we take Halo to training classes despite. I insisted on classes because Halo needs socialization, and doggy school is a great way to help socialize a dog. Being in a class with other doggy students means a chance to interact with those dogs (and their owners!) in a positive setting. Better yet, taking classes in a busy store (we took Halo to PetSmart) means that there are also a lot of other people and dogs around besides those in the class.  When class is over, you can walk around and continue to meet new people and their pets.
Training classes may seem like a lot of money for some, but I find the money to be well spent.  Its a small price to pay for a happier, better-behaved dog!

Pet insurance. It exists! And can be a life saver for pet owners who can't afford emergency vet bills on their own.

I see a lot of very sad things working at an emergency vet clinic.  It's just a part of the job.  But I’ve managed to stifle my tears and carry on in the face of dead and dying animals and their mourning owners. That is….until recently.  Earlier this week presented a case that struck a cord with me in a way that required I go spend a little time by myself because I couldn’t help but cry. A puppy came in that was very sick. It was in and out of the clinic for a couple days before it came back one last time in such a state that the kindest thing to do was humanely euthanize. And while the puppy was in a physically terrible state, the real problem was that the owners didn’t have enough money to pay for the treatment needed to help the puppy get better.

This little puppy is not the first animal that I’ve seen put to sleep because the owners didn’t have money to pay for treatment. Surgeries can cost thousands of dollars, x-rays alone can cost hundreds. And while the doctors at the emergency clinic try to work with and help out those for whom money is an issue, there is only so much we can do while still staying in business. It breaks my heart to see animals for which the only financially viable option is humane euthanasia. Watching this happen to a puppy, which had barely begun to live its life, was very hard for me. All I could think was, life is just so unfair sometimes.

And so I’d like to talk a little bit about Pet Insurance.  Many people don’t know such a thing exits, but it does and there are many companies from which you can purchase policies.
When I first got Leopold, I knew that I could afford food, training classes, routine vet visits, and other doggy supplies. However, the idea of a trip to the emergency room scared me. Emergency bills add up quickly, something I know now more than ever as an employee at a vet emergency clinic. And while emergency vet bills do not always reach the thousands, they can—especially if surgery is needed. So to help ease my mind, I looked into and purchased a pet insurance plan for Leopold. It was incredibly affordable (less than $200 a year) and would provide up to $12,000 in treatment for an emergency situation. The premium goes up a little ever year because Leopold’s chances of needing emergency care for illness or injury increase as he gets older. However, it’s still affordable. And while Leopold has not yet needed to visit the emergency room, it’s nice to know that I’d be able to pay the bill if I had to.
If you’re interested in finding and purchasing a plan, here’s a website I found helpful: http://www.petinsurancereview.com/dog.asp
I, myself, got a policy with PetPlan, which is one of the higher user-ranked, but still affordable companies. The plan I got was good for emergency situations.  But there are many companies that have many different plan options. There are even companies that offer plans, for a higher premium of course, that help pay for routine vet visits and vaccines.
I recommend pet insurance to anyone who doesn’t have thousands of dollars that they could potentially drop on treatment for their animal. Paying a little bit now sure beats having to euthanize your fury little friend because you can’t pay for treatment when bad luck stumbles their way.

Keeping the peace: a lesson on dog body language.

There are a couple of miniature poodles in our neighborhood who we often see out walking (with their owner of course)—cute little things that are probably each the size of Leopold’s head. Well… maybe more like his head and neck.
In any case, Leopold and I saw the poodles on our walk this morning. At their approach, Leopold lowered his head, pulled back his ears, crouched his body, and then lay down on the path completely. The owner asked me if Leopold was stalking, as if his poodles were the prey. Not at all! I explained what was really going on, and afterwards it occurred to me that there are probably more people out there who don’t know what it means when a dog lowers his body or even lays down at the approach of another dog; so I thought I’d write a quick post about it.
What was really going on was that Leopold was trying to preemptively keep the peace. He lay down as a show of submission to let the approaching little poodles, which were clearly formidable forces, know that he meant no harm. He did this before they got close enough to start a scuffle so that he could greatly reduce the chance of a scuffle happening when they actually met on the path.
I have to admit, it’s a little annoying that Leopold does this sometimes. It’s awfully hard to be walking when my dog is lying down… And aside from trying to pick him back up, there’s not a lot I can do but wait for him to get up again. But at the same time, I’m glad Leopold is trying to keep the peace.

Bone chewing: Remembing why its important to supervise your dog.

While I was sitting in my room writing the previous post, something else happened that reminded me of another doggy lesson: it’s always a good idea to supervise your dog when they’re playing with and chewing on toys!
Halo was engaging in one of her favorite activities, chewing on a bone, when I heard a CRACK! I turned around to find that she had snapped a huge, sharp chip off her bone! I immediately took the bone pieces away, and seeing as the bone is now too sharp for her to safely chew on, it is now destined for the trash.

Bone chips can cause serious problems if swallowed. The pieces can get stuck in a dog’s throat or windpipe or anywhere along the digestive tract; if they don’t get stuck, they can scrape the linings of the digestive tract and/or be painful and hard to pass. Halo unfortunately had this happen to her not long ago after ingesting small bone chunks from a large, smoked knuckle bone. We learned too late that Halo had chewed the bone in half and had, unknowingly to us, consumed relatively large pieces of the bone. She got sick a day or so later and had to strain to pass the bone chunks. She was lucky that the bone bits didn’t cause more damage. From that experience, we learned that Halo is a little too good at chewing on bones and that closer supervision is needed when she’s enjoying a good chew. It’s also clear from both the knuckle bone incident and today’s cracked bone that Halo should only be allowed to chew very thick bones or antlers so that she can’t break off more than a tiny bit at a time.  Her jaws are just too powerful!

Cleaning Halo's ears for the first time.

Halo had her first ear cleaning not long ago. I was petting her when I got a whiff of a funky, yeasty smell. I’ve smelled such a scent before… on dogs with ear infections. Upon a closer sniff, I learned the smell was, indeed, coming from her ears. At that point the smell wasn't too bad, barely noticeable really, so I just kept an eye on it for the time being. If the smell got worse, it would have been time for Halo to go see a vet. The funky smell went away but reminded me of the importance of checking a dog’s ears every now and then, and the importance of cleaning them if they look (or smell) dirty!

I know that there are all sort of ear cleaning products out there and sometimes they’re necessary (especially for dogs that are prone to ear infections like cocker spaniels and golden retrievers), but I’ve found that just cleaning out the gunk and debris every now and then with dry cotton balls seems to work. I use cotton balls for two reasons: they’re large enough that there’s no way they’re going to go down the ear canal (never insert anything into the ear canal!), and they can be squished easily and gently into all the grooves of a dog’s ear without my finger being squished into the groove also (which I imagine might hurt or at least be uncomfortable for the dog).

I’ve been handling Leopold’s ears since he was a pup; he’s very used to an occasional ear cleaning (and frequent ear checks!), so he’s very good about sitting still while I clean out all the gunk and dirt. But dogs don’t start out feeling comfortable with you squishing cotton balls into their ears. So how do you clean a dog’s ears for the first time? I’ve found that it’s important to always keep these types of things positive for the dog. To keep the experience fun and interesting, I let Halo sniff the cotton balls periodically throughout the process (for some reason dogs seem to really like to sniff the gunk that comes out of their ears!). I also gave her lots of praise and reassurance and used as little restraint as possible—it was more like holding her hear steady than restraint. I also kept the session short and gave her a small treat afterwards!

Halo sniffs at a cotton ball.