"roundy beds": an afordable, washable alternative to store-bought dog beds

Here's an idea I got from the clinic I work at......

I've noticed that my dogs like to have soft things to curl up against and put their heads on when they're laying down and sleeping.  I often find Leopold bundling up a sweatshirt or jacket that I've left on the floor to make a nice pile to sleep on.  He has fluffy blankets and a foam-mattress bed to sleep on too, but something about a bundle of fabric is really appealing to him.
And for that reason I've spent many a long minute staring at the big, squishy beds at pet stores.  You know, the kind that have a thick, fluffy edge all the way around.  "Wow, my dogs would love that", I think to myself.  And then I imagine what a pain in the butt it would be to wash that bed.  It won't really fit in the washing machine, and what a mess it would be to de-stuff in order to make it fit.  Not practical at all.  And then one look at the price tag helps speed up the decision-making process, and I walk away.  Expensive!  I've thought about making my own, but that still leaves the washability problem.

The solution I've come up with turned out to be quite simple.
At work, we have only blankets to create beds for our patients.  We often make what has been dubbed "roundy beds" out of the blankets to put in the cages so the animals have something more than a cage wall to lean against.
I've been making roundy beds for Leopold and Halo at home, and they have seemed delighted!
I'm happy they like the beds, and am pleased at how easy they are to wash since they're just made up of blankets.

Here's how to make a roundy bed:



1.  gather materials:  all you need is a couple of blankets (I have pictured a queen-sized fleece, and a smaller, throw fleece)

 2.  roll up the large blanket and form it into a circle on the floor or on top of your dog's pillow/foam bed






3.  put the other blanket over top and tuck in the edges-- it helps to keep the circle from unraveling







Simple, washable, and inexpensive!
And, dog-approved:

What do you do when an off-leash dog charges at you and your dogs?

I’ll tell you what I do.  And I’ll tell you why I do it. 

I was on a morning walk with Leopold and Halo today when an off-leash, med-large dog saw us, and then ran, barking, full-speed towards us.  The owner tried to call off her dog, but clearly did not have control over her dog (annoying…).

What did I do?  I did not retreat.  I stood tall, held my ground, and then actually took a large step closer to the charging dog.  In a loud, commanding voice, I said “That’s enough!” The dog stopped charging us and stopped barking.  Then I told the dog to go away (both verbally and with an arm movement).

Why did I do this?  I did this to try to take control of the situation.  The owner clearly did not have control over her dog, so I stepped up and took a “dominant” role.  And by that I mean that I did my best to put out a calm, confidant, and assertive energy.  I stepped closer to the dog and used an arm motion when telling it to go away because dogs tend to be more visual communicators than verbal (for more information on this fact, please read mypost on the best way to communicate with dogs).

My goal in reacting to a charging dog this way is not to be aggressive, but to take control of the situation by using verbal and visual cues to let the dog know that I have done so. 

This is not the first time an off-leash dog has charged at me and my dogs:

Chris and I had recently moved to the Annapolis area and were out walking Leopold (we had yet to adopt Halo).  We were strolling down the street in a residential neighborhood when two Boston Terriers suddenly appeared in a yard across the street.  They ran to the edge of the yard and started barking at us.  They were off-leash, and I wondered if they had somehow slipped out of their yard and were roaming free.  I considered trying to catch them to find their owners, but decided there were actually in their own yard because they didn’t seem to be leaving it.  We decided to move along and started back on our way.  As soon as we turned our backs on these dogs, one of the Boston terriers bolted out of its yard and charged at us, barking wildly.

As soon as this happened, I turned back to the dog, took steps towards it and said in a very firm, raised but controlled voice “That’s enough!”.  The charging dog stopped dead in its tracks and both dogs stopped barking.  “Go home!” I said, and pointed to the dogs’ house.  The two Boston Terriers put their tails between their legs and ran back home.  Chris told me later that even he was scared. Ha!

Why did these dogs charge?  From my understanding, these two boston terriers most likely saw us as “intruders” approaching their territory.  They were barking at us to scare us away; when we turned to walk away, in their minds they had been successful, which only encouraged the behavior (positive reinforcement, if you will).  It gave them the confidence to scare us even further out of “their territory”.  This is why I took a step towards them.  In a way, I believe I was telling them it was not their territory, and that they needed to go back to their own. 

Having another person’s dog charge at you can be somewhat frightening, I know.  And some people may not feel comfortable confronting the dog in such a way as I described above.  The alternative is, of course, to let the dog complete its charge and harass you and your own dogs.  And running away will of course not work, because dogs instinctually will chase (as you saw above, even walking away can trigger chasing behavior).  I’d rather stop the charge before the dog gets to me and my dogs.

Of course, it’s important to assess the situation and decide on a response accordingly, but it’s also important to remember that most dogs will respond to a calm, assertive show of “dominance” with respect, not aggression. 

Parsley: foil foul breath with this nutritious addition to your dog’s food

I’m excited to share something new that I recently learned! 

Not long ago I was sitting on the floor with Leopold, giving him a head massage and rubbing his ears, when he decided to give me kisses.  ….Stinky, smelly, eau de dead-animal, rotten kisses.  Bleh!

We’ve been putting up with bad doggy breath around this house for a while, but it was then that I decided to finally try something I had read about a while ago in a book: adding a little parsley to a dog’s food is said to help fight bad breath! (I’ve heard it works on humans, too).

We’ve been putting parsley on Leopold and Halo’s food off and on for the past week or so.  Every time we put parsley on their food, their breath is noticeably better!  And their breath goes back to being kind of stinky the times we forget to add parsley.  The parsley seems to be a bad-breath-exterminating success!

In addition to now being able to withstand being in the same room with my dogs when they yawn, I can also feel good about adding some extra nutrients to their food.  Parsley is a source of vitamin C, vitamin A, calcium, magnesium, and iron.  Some think that it may even help prevent cancer! 

I plan on making parsley a daily addition to my dogs’ meals from now on!

Reference:

Brown, Andi.  Whole Pet Diet: Eight Weeks to Great Health for Dogs and Cats.  New York: Celestial Arts, Crown Publishing Group, Random House, Inc, 2006. Print.

Eleanor and Milo: an online store that sells unique, eco-friendly dog toys!

Leopold as a puppy playing with toys from Eleanor and Milo!

When I first got Leopold, I bought a plethora of different types of toys because I wasn’t sure what he would be interested in playing with.  Some of the first toys I got for him were purchased from a small online business called Eleanor and Milo.  The business owner, Kate Butler, is a dog enthusiast with a creative soul and the skills to actualize her ideas and designs.  The dog toys and accessories she sells are all high-quality, one of a kind, and are hand-made from reclaimed fabrics.
I truly love the toys she makes (and so does Leopold!).  The toys are durable, delightful, chewable pieces of art!  And the cherry on top is that they’re also eco-friendly. 

Leopold has many toys from Eleanor and Milo and they are among his favorite toys.  I love watching the joy he gets from throwing around his stuffed ball or his toss toys.

To help you get to know Kate and her business a little better, I’ve included a short interview:

L- How did you get started making dog toys?

K- I have always been a maker. I have combined my passion for sustainability with my endless need to make things for as long as I can remember; early on that looked more like sculptures made of found metal, plants, handmade papers and woven vines. However, through getting a degree in Industrial Design, I developed a more holistic understanding of product research, manufacturing methodologies, and bringing a product to market. Eleanor and Milo began with my desire to dip my toe into that world… and I’ll be honest… my desire to have a GIANT box of toys for my dogs.

L- Why do you make them?

K- I make Eleanor and Milo dog toys because I love the idea of creating a product that will result in a tail wag… and maybe even a smile. When I hang out with my two dogs their joy and openheartedness is contagious. I find that one of the best ways to open my own heart is to interact with them - with intention and caring - and that giving them toys and treats is one way to do this. It’s just so good for everyone involved.
On a personal level, I adore spending time in my studio, behind my humming industrial sewing machine, with my dogs on the floor behind me and my music blaring in the background while I piece together one of a kind toys and accessories.

    L- How do you make them--what sort of qualities are you going for?  

    K- Simple – Sustainable – Fun
    Every toy is made with at least two layers – sometimes more – of heavy-duty repurposed upholstery fabric, and then stuffed with re-purposed strips of fabric and a squeaker protected in its own denim pouch. Every single seam is sewn with upholstery grade threads and an industrial sewing machine. I like to use pretty simple construction methods for both the simple aesthetics and because in general the fewer seams the stronger the toy is.

L- Where do you get the materials?

K- Every material in Eleanor and Milo toys, besides the thread and squeakers, is up cycled or reclaimed. The upholstery grade thread I use is made in the US. The majority of my upholstery fabrics are –unused– remnants from the furniture manufacturing industry in High Point, NC. For exciting fabrics, denim for the squeakers, and jersey for the cowls I have two local thrift stores that I frequent. Both thrift stores amazingly donate their profits to animal organizations. And then on top of that I donate 5% of all proceeds from the toys to Independent Animal Rescue each year.

Leopold tries to play with all the toys at once!

L- And is there anything else you might want people to know about your awesome toys?

K- My primary focus with Eleanor and Milo is to offer adorable toys and accessories that have a super small eco-footprint and encourage joy and lighthearted play. I think of each toy as a gift to both the people that order them and the pup that gets to play with them so, I gift wrap each toy in 100% recycled tissue and kraft paper then add a simple ribbon and note. I adore making Eleanor and Milo products, and hope that people continue to discover these toys and share them with others. Thanks!!

If you’re interested in purchasing some of Kate’s amazing toys for your own dog, check out her Etsy store front! I'd also like to mention that Kate does custom work, so if you don't see what you want, make an inquiry: click "request custom item" under shop info.

“Raisin” Awareness: A common food you might not have known is potentially toxic to your dog.

It seems a little random, I know, but did you know that grapes (and their dried counterpart, raisins) can be very harmful to dogs? I was surprised to find this out when I first got Leopold (and consequently delved into the world of dog knowledge!).

Grapes contain a toxin that can cause the kidneys to fail in some dogs, which will lead to death if untreated. This does not happen in all dogs and I’ve heard many stories about people who feed their dogs grapes all the time without observable consequences. I imagine that, just like humans, tolerance to certain foods varies from dog to dog. Unfortunately, some dogs have dangerous reactions to consuming grapes and raisins, and this fruit has been known to cause the untimely death of many canines. The risk is high enough that the general advice is to just not give your dog grapes and raisins at all.

What can happen if a dog eats grapes or raisins?
A dog might start to have some gastrointestinal upset including vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain, and in some cases lethargy and depression. Following that, a dog’s kidneys can start to fail (acute renal failure). Renal failure is very serious and will lead to death if left untreated.

Why does this happen?
As someone who is forever interested in the mechanistic components involved in everything, I’ve been looking into what exactly it is about grapes that are bad. Unfortunately, like many topics I research online, information varies. On the boards, I found some that say it’s only the seed (“My vet told me…blah blah blah”), some say it’s the skin. Many published resources say it is an “unknown” toxin. Basically, they just don’t know yet what about the grape causes the problem. What IS known is that sometimes grapes can cause a dog to go into renal failure and die. Personally, I’d rather not take the risk and I don’t ever give my dogs grapes or raisins. The way I see it, there are lots of other yummy treats available (blueberries, for example) that are known to be safe and even healthy. So why risk it?

What should you do if your dog eats grapes or raisins?
Take them to the vet! Right away! I’ve seen more than a few dogs come into the emergency clinic because they ingested raisins or grapes. When we have a dog come in that has eaten grapes or raisins, we generally try to induce vomiting if the grapes/raisins have been eaten within the past few hours. We once had a pair come in that had gotten into some holiday cinnamon-raisin bread (which was particularly disgusting because the cinnamon made the vomit smell delicious. Bleh!). We also sometimes feed the dog a substance that soaks up any toxins that might still be in the dog’s gut, and we monitor blood chemistry to help evaluate kidney function.

Grapes may be a tasty treat for humans, but they’re best left out of your dog’s diet.

Reference:
McKnight, Katrina. (2005). "Grape and Raisin Toxicity in Dogs" (PDF). Veterinary Technician: 135–136. retrieved 06.25.2012

Humpty hump and canine hierarchy.

I was at the dog park today during a time when it was hopping!  (Literally, as there were some dogs so happy to play that they were hopping around!)

One reason I love going to the dog park, aside from the satisfaction of getting to see Leopold and Halo be so utterly free and happy, is that I get to talk to other owners.  Dogs really do bring all sorts of people together, which I love.  Today on two separate accounts I witnessed owners remark on the significance humping—both owners commenting on the sexuality involved in the act.  One was saying that she had her dog neutered recently so she figured he’d stop humping, and the other owner assumed it was a male hormone-related behavior.

Humping is actually a dominance-related behavior (unless, of course, there is actually mating going on…).  But under normal circumstance, the humping behavior is just one dog telling another that they’re “top dog”.  Even females partake in this declaration of doggy hierarchy.  Halo has humped Leopold on more than one occasion to assert her dominance.  Because this sort of humping has nothing to do with procreation, spaying and neutering isn’t going to stop the behavior.  Leopold was neutered before he was even ten weeks old; and he humped at least four dogs today at the dog park. 

Though, I should say he tried, as I shooed him off all the dogs he was attempting to assert his dominance over…  I, personally, don’t like my dogs to partake in that behavior for a couple reasons.  The first being that it’s a little embarrassing because, come on, my dog is humping someone else’s dog…. And some owners don’t understand what the behavior really means and instead think my dog is being inappropriate.  The other reason is that some dogs REALLY don’t like being humped and get very angry at any dog that tries.  From what I’ve seen, it seems like humping is a very insistent assertion of dominance, and some dogs really don’t respond well to that.  Leopold has made a couple of dogs angry this way, which is never good.

Interestingly, asserting dominance by humping isn’t just a canine behavior.  Rabbits also partake in the activity.  I was once bunny-sitting for some friends and witnessed it first hand.  The smaller, female rabbit asserted her dominance over the much larger male by humping his head.  Ha!  It was quite funny to watch because the female was so much smaller.

Whether you want to shoo your dog off of others is up to you, but it’s good to know the motivation behind the humping behavior—as some dog fights can start when one dog over-steps its bounds when trying to assert its dominance over another. 

Train your dog and keep your fingers, too! Tips on how to teach your dog to take a treat nicely.

When I was at the AASPCA today, some of the dogs I was working with had yet to learn how to take a treat nicely from a person’s hand. I figured it would make for a good topic to discuss right here on my blog.


The problem.

I’m reminded of an owner whom was in one of the classes I was helping with when I was training to become a pet training instructor at Petsmart. Whenever the owner would offer her (huge) dog a treat, the dog would lunge at the treat (and the owner’s hand). The owner would then basically drop the treat and snatch her hand back; it was very obvious that she didn’t feel comfortable offering her dog a food treat for fear the dog would accidentally eat a little bit of her hand in addition to the treat.

If this happens to you, then this is a great post for you to read! No owner should have to be afraid that their dog is going to accidentally bite their hand. When you’re training your dog, you want to be focusing on the training, not on the safety of your hands.
So if you have a dog that doesn’t take treats nicely, the first thing you need to do is stop trying to train your dog to do anything else! Let’s get this problem solved first. It shouldn’t take long.


Why do you need to take care of this problem now, rather than later?

Because every time your dog lunges for a treat and is successful at getting it, the dog has been rewarded for the lunging behavior and will only continue to repeat this bad behavior in the future! Ah! That’s not what we want!

So from now on, the rule is: dogs don’t get treats unless they take them nicely.


The solution.

The first thing I do is I make sure to hold the treat in the flat of my hand—I sort of hold it between the sides of a couple of fingers. When I do eventually let the dog have the treat, I give it to them with the flat of my hand towards their face. I’ve found that this leads to fewer incidents of accidentally bitten fingers due merely to the fact that they can’t fit their mouth around my hand when it’s in this position.

The next thing I do is offer a treat slowly. As soon as I see the dog start to lunge for the treat, I pull my hand away. They know the treat is in my hand and will learn that the longer they hold still, the closer the treat gets to their face (dog: “yay!”) and closer to their mouth (dog: “yay!”). And eventually they’ll learn that when they sit still and don’t lunge, they actually get to eat the yummy treat. (dog: “YAY!”).

When I finally do give the treat to the dog, I prefer to (gently) pop it in their mouth instead of letting them take it from my hand (some dogs are just a little too rough with their teeth when they try to take the treat themselves).

My dogs both take treats very nicely these days (I’ve even had people comment on how nicely they take treats), and it’s because I follow this simple rule: dogs only get treats if they take them nicely!